Arunachal Pradesh: Journey to the Center of the World, Part IV

This last experience in Arunachal really sealed the deal as far as convincing me that there is nowhere in the world that can really be called “remote” except from a really culturally elitist perspective.  Even in this tiny, hard to access corner of a province sandwiched between Bhutan and China, and contested by the latter, decent human beings were leading happy, healthy lives that were totally comprehensible and accessible even to complete outsiders like me and Mike.  The world really is a tiny place, and everywhere is at its center.

The other people whom serendipity introduced to us we met at Tawang Monastery.  Mike and I were wandering around, looking at Buddhas, and saw a group of about 15 (mostly) white people a ways away, also looking at Buddhas.  These were the most westerners we’d seen in one place since three months ago in Thailand, so we were a bit apprehensive about the whole situation.  Do we talk to them, or ignore them?  What do we say?  What if they’re not friendly?  We debated and worried.  Finally we decided to introduce ourselves, and I’m glad we did, because they just happened to be the great people from Jamtse Gatsal (Tibetan for “love and compassion”), an educational community for local orphans and disadvantaged children. 




Above: Adam (English teacher), Vesuda (director), Leah (medical volunteer), Tenjin (house mom and teacher), Andrea (social studies and science teacher).
Below: Some of the other teachers.

  




More than just a school, Jamtse is a self-contained community started by a Buddhist monk who received express permission from the Dalai Lama to leave his post and start this project.  Years later, Jamtse has enough funds to house, educate, and love more than 80 children from the area, and provide educational facilities better than most regular schools in the area.  The whole facility has satellite internet and solar power, and the kids stay in communal houses, instead of dormitories.  Each house has a house mom, who acts just like a real mom, to twenty or more children at a time.  The students aren’t cut loose after graduation either.  They receive lifelong support, just like a real family, and Jamtse helps them go to college, find jobs, deal with real-world issues, etc.


 

The facilities are really nice, and in a cloud.  Plus the kiddos are really cute!
It was amazing just how warm-hearted and sincere all of the children were.  As soon as we showed up, hugs were given, tons of questions were asked (oh, and most of them speak fluent English too), and it just continued like that for the entire several days we were there.  The students were all polite and respectful, but at the same time confident in themselves, and it was clear that the environment they were in made them feel safe, secure, and loved.  Mostly we just hung out, played frisbee, took selfies with funny faces, and “helped” in the garden, but it was an amazing experience, and I have to give a big thanks to Vesuda for having us.

Here are some outtakes:
 
I have no idea where this leave crown came from. 


 
Thanks for letting me “help” pick peppers in the garden guys.  By the way, Jamtse’s gardens provide a big chunk of its food.  The kids do a lot of the gardening and maintenance, helping to reduce the amount of food they need to bring in from outside (which is tough since the road from Tawang has been washed out).  Plus, these peppers are awesome, especially combined with stinky cheese soup!


 
Above: Momo (tibetan dumplings) prep!
Below:  Momo party! (everyone looks so intense)


If you’re interested in visiting Jamtse Gatsal, visit their website, shoot them an email, and see if they couldn’t use your help for a few days, months, or years.  Keep in mind though, that to get there, first you have to fly to India, then take a train to the remote northeast city of Guwahati, then take a three day bus ride over treacherous mountain roads and a 4,200m pass to Tawang, THEN another share taxi for several hours to a remote village, and FINALLY you have to walk for about 30 minutes out onto the ridge where Jamtse is located.  But don’t worry, once you get there, you won’t want to leave!

Don’t forget to check out the trailer for the upcoming documentary about Jamtse, called Tashi and the Monk (I already saw it! nannynanny booboo):